In my never ending search for “vintage” books on boating I recently purchased a copy of Time on the Thames by Eric de Maré. It was published in 1952 and, like his The Canals of England; it was published by the Architectural Press. It includes some delightful and artistic monochrome photographs and is a good read. It is largely a description of the Thames from its estuary to its source. Some of descriptions are familiar, and a lot of the history should be familiar because it is covered elsewhere, but two quirky aspects immediately caught my attention.
The first aspect was the caption that accompanies the photograph of Wittenham Clumps. This is the spinney that tops the Sinodun Hills just above Days Lock. When boating near here we particularly enjoy mooring near the lock and walking up the hills to enjoy the fabulous view from the top. The last time we boated along this stretch, in 2003, Channel 4’s Timeteam were carrying out an excavation on an Iron Age fort at the top of the hills. What caught my attention in the book were the names quoted by the author for the hills. Evidently they are, or were, called the Berkshire Bubs or Mother Dunch’s Buttocks. De Maré thought the reasons for the name are long forgotten. Although I don’t know who Mother Dunch was, I would have thought that the anatomical references in both names are quite obvious!
The second aspect that caught my attention was a quotation that de Maré used from a parliamentary Select Committee in 1884. Evidently a certain Sir Gilbert Augustus Clayton East did not object to the public using the river but he did object to the “type” of person. To quote:
“My complaint is not of the public coming to use the river, but the class who come.”
“I have often wanted to know whether these people were naturally savages; or whether they become savage when they come to the river.”
“There are two classes of roughs on the river; one class belongs to the London ‘Arry’, the other is a superior class … yet these are the people who do as much, if not more damage, than the others. They real river roughs offend by their appearance, their language and their deeds.”
Sir Gilbert went on to complain about the “real river roughs” not having shorts that reached their knees, wearing sleeveless jerseys, and yet being accompanied by women!
De Maré thought, quite rightly, that this attitude hardly accorded with the spirit of the Magna Carta, signed at Runnymede. He reported that the Select Committee did not agree with him – thank goodness for that!.
Knoydart Holiday, Scotland
We haven’t done much boating in Albert recently because we have been busy on other “projects”, notably gardening.
One of these was a great holiday in Scotland away from it all in late May. We had a week on Knoydart, a Hebridian peninsular on the mainland which is so remote you can only get there boat. Knoydart lies between Lochs Nevis and Hourn and faces the Isle of Skye. The peninsula is not connected by road to the rest of mainland Britain and boasts the most remote pub on mainland Britain, The Old Forge.
Knoydart has had a difficult history since the Highland Clearances, but for the last ten years the estate has been run by its residents (about 100 in total) through the Knoydart Foundation . As part of the celebrations of the tenth anniversary of the foundation we spent a marvellous evening at Inverie listening to Ian McEwan reading from his forthcoming book.
We stayed the week in the Stone Lodges at Doune as a party of eight. The owners of the lodges are friends of Juliet and Mike Peet, who have been boating with us on Albert, and they had been to Doune before. We travelled to Mallaig by car and got picked up by boat in the pouring rain. The wildlife was spectacular, with red deer, otters, seals, dolphins and plenty of birdlife. The food at Doune was a major part of the holiday. All ingredients brought in by boat! The seafood, all caught locally, was particularly memorable and the venison, from the estate, was delicious.
We did a lot of hill walking, which we won’t report on, but here are some images of boating.
Travelling to Doune in the rain!
Doune looking towards the Isle of Skye
Waiting for Gripper II at Doune Harbour
Maggie steering GripperII
Looking towards Inverie
Loch Nevis
Gripper departing from Carnousie landing stage. Maggie off to Mallaig to collect prawns.
A prawn feast at Doune!
Sunset over the Cullins from Doune
Mallaig Harbour
We will long remember this holiday and this wonderful wilderness.
One of these was a great holiday in Scotland away from it all in late May. We had a week on Knoydart, a Hebridian peninsular on the mainland which is so remote you can only get there boat. Knoydart lies between Lochs Nevis and Hourn and faces the Isle of Skye. The peninsula is not connected by road to the rest of mainland Britain and boasts the most remote pub on mainland Britain, The Old Forge.
Knoydart has had a difficult history since the Highland Clearances, but for the last ten years the estate has been run by its residents (about 100 in total) through the Knoydart Foundation . As part of the celebrations of the tenth anniversary of the foundation we spent a marvellous evening at Inverie listening to Ian McEwan reading from his forthcoming book.
We stayed the week in the Stone Lodges at Doune as a party of eight. The owners of the lodges are friends of Juliet and Mike Peet, who have been boating with us on Albert, and they had been to Doune before. We travelled to Mallaig by car and got picked up by boat in the pouring rain. The wildlife was spectacular, with red deer, otters, seals, dolphins and plenty of birdlife. The food at Doune was a major part of the holiday. All ingredients brought in by boat! The seafood, all caught locally, was particularly memorable and the venison, from the estate, was delicious.
We did a lot of hill walking, which we won’t report on, but here are some images of boating.
Travelling to Doune in the rain!
Doune looking towards the Isle of Skye
Waiting for Gripper II at Doune Harbour
Maggie steering GripperII
Looking towards Inverie
Loch Nevis
Gripper departing from Carnousie landing stage. Maggie off to Mallaig to collect prawns.
A prawn feast at Doune!
Sunset over the Cullins from Doune
Mallaig Harbour
We will long remember this holiday and this wonderful wilderness.
African Dancers in Manchester
One of the joys of visiting English cities by boat is the ability to moor up and explore areas you would not normally visit. We rarely have the opportunity these days to just enjoy our cities like a tourist, but when one does there is usually something unexpected to discover.
When we moored up in Manchester recently we went to museums, art galleries, a concert and of course the shops. But in Piccadilly Gardens we found a group of African drummers and a sitar player performing with some dancers. A student from the Northern College of Music was also watching and he provided some commentary on their tuning and scales. It so was fascinating Steve couldn't resist taking a video clip.
Dancers and musicians from Gambia
When we moored up in Manchester recently we went to museums, art galleries, a concert and of course the shops. But in Piccadilly Gardens we found a group of African drummers and a sitar player performing with some dancers. A student from the Northern College of Music was also watching and he provided some commentary on their tuning and scales. It so was fascinating Steve couldn't resist taking a video clip.
Dancers and musicians from Gambia
Our North-West Cruise
It has now been over 10 days since we got back from our cruise. It was a memorable journey, particularly our trip down the Anderton Lift and our few days spent on the River Weaver. We will also remember how wet but beautiful it was on the Cauldon Canal.
It was also memorable for Steve meeting up with his Manchester cousins.
Jean and Frank navigating on the Bridgewater Canal
Reunion at Sale
Mike, Barbara, Jean, Maggie, & Steve
We have just worked out our travel log using Canalplan AC.
It gave us the following information:
Total distance was 408 miles, 1¾ flg and 254 locks. There were at least 14 moveable bridges; 53 small aqueducts or underbridges and 11 tunnels.
Made up of 284 miles of narrow canals; 83 miles of broad canals; 39 miles of large rivers; 195 narrow locks; 51 broad locks; 8 large locks.
The large river miles were on the Weaver, as were the eight large locks. These locks were, of course, operated by others but the rest we did. The 195 narrow locks were no real problem, except for the odd broken paddle and leaky gate, but as we got near home we were struck just how heavy the gates on the Buckby flight are. Sometime ago BW ran a study on the force required to open gates. We never saw the results but you can bet that Long Buckby must be somewhere close to the top of the list.
The planner said this would take 199 hours, or 33 days at 6 hours per day. We managed it in a total of five weeks, but some days we were on the move for over 8 hours and on other days, as in Manchester, we did very little.
It was also memorable for Steve meeting up with his Manchester cousins.
Jean and Frank navigating on the Bridgewater Canal
Reunion at Sale
Mike, Barbara, Jean, Maggie, & Steve
We have just worked out our travel log using Canalplan AC.
It gave us the following information:
Total distance was 408 miles, 1¾ flg and 254 locks. There were at least 14 moveable bridges; 53 small aqueducts or underbridges and 11 tunnels.
Made up of 284 miles of narrow canals; 83 miles of broad canals; 39 miles of large rivers; 195 narrow locks; 51 broad locks; 8 large locks.
The large river miles were on the Weaver, as were the eight large locks. These locks were, of course, operated by others but the rest we did. The 195 narrow locks were no real problem, except for the odd broken paddle and leaky gate, but as we got near home we were struck just how heavy the gates on the Buckby flight are. Sometime ago BW ran a study on the force required to open gates. We never saw the results but you can bet that Long Buckby must be somewhere close to the top of the list.
The planner said this would take 199 hours, or 33 days at 6 hours per day. We managed it in a total of five weeks, but some days we were on the move for over 8 hours and on other days, as in Manchester, we did very little.
Cement Shoes at Stoke Bruerne!
Hollywood legend has it that the Mafia disposed of their opponents by setting their feet in cement and throwing them into a lake or the sea. It appears that we may have a offshoot of the Cosa Nostra in Northants. Last week as we were going down the Stoke Bruerne flight, I pushed off our boat Albert from the wall of a lock pound and found that I was pushing against another pair shoes set into the wall. I presume that they are not attached to legs!
Cement shoes at Stoke Bruerne Locks
Interesting that they aren't actually a pair, but then I suppose lost shoes rarely do occur in pairs.
A few years ago when we visited Walney Island Nature Reserve one of the volunteers, who was always finding trainers washed up on the beach, offered the profound thought “I never find them in pairs – I wonder what happens to the other half?”.
Cement shoes at Stoke Bruerne Locks
Interesting that they aren't actually a pair, but then I suppose lost shoes rarely do occur in pairs.
A few years ago when we visited Walney Island Nature Reserve one of the volunteers, who was always finding trainers washed up on the beach, offered the profound thought “I never find them in pairs – I wonder what happens to the other half?”.
Updating our posts
We have just been updating our blogs with images. Looking back we had some great days. If you want to see all the uploaded images you will have to go to "older posts".
To Yardley Gobion (May 7)
It was a windy day. The trip down to Blisworth was relatively uneventful although we did see a kingfisher by Gayton Junction. Raymond and Nutfield were moored up at the junction and Steve Miles was onboard.
Restored working boat Raymond
The journey through Blisworth Tunnel was very straightforward with no boats coming the other way. As we reached the end we began to notice people peering around the corner of the towpath to see how we were progressing. A small group of visitors we clustered around the portal. No doubt the sound of a boat approaching through the tunnel had intrigued them.
There were very few boats moored up at Stoke Bruerne so we were able to moor up close to the museum for lunch and enjoy the sunshine. As we entered to the top lock of the Stoke Bruerne flight our friend Shirley Emmins dashed across from the Boat Inn. She and her friend Jo were having a walk around Stoke Bruerne and had just finished their lunch. We gave them an introduction to locks and locking and gave them a trip on Albert along the Long Pound.
It remained windy all the way to Yardley Gobion and getting into Kingfisher Marina was challenging. We did manage to get Albert cleanly into her berth in a strong crosswind, but that was probably because nobody was watching. We were greeted home by Kingfisher’s permanent moorers Ralph and Betty. We then had the task of unpacking the boat.
It has been a memorable trip and Albert has performed well.
Restored working boat Raymond
The journey through Blisworth Tunnel was very straightforward with no boats coming the other way. As we reached the end we began to notice people peering around the corner of the towpath to see how we were progressing. A small group of visitors we clustered around the portal. No doubt the sound of a boat approaching through the tunnel had intrigued them.
There were very few boats moored up at Stoke Bruerne so we were able to moor up close to the museum for lunch and enjoy the sunshine. As we entered to the top lock of the Stoke Bruerne flight our friend Shirley Emmins dashed across from the Boat Inn. She and her friend Jo were having a walk around Stoke Bruerne and had just finished their lunch. We gave them an introduction to locks and locking and gave them a trip on Albert along the Long Pound.
It remained windy all the way to Yardley Gobion and getting into Kingfisher Marina was challenging. We did manage to get Albert cleanly into her berth in a strong crosswind, but that was probably because nobody was watching. We were greeted home by Kingfisher’s permanent moorers Ralph and Betty. We then had the task of unpacking the boat.
It has been a memorable trip and Albert has performed well.
To Weedon (May 6)
It was windy and bright as we left Hillmorton. At the top of the lock flight we found NB Towcester preparing to leave. They moved off just before we left the lock and we followed them to Barby Wharf where they stopped to make one of their coal deliveries.
Working boat Towcester mooring up to make a coal delivery
In the process we passed another Albert. Ten years ago we used to see this Albert around Blisworth.
Another NB Albert
We followed a Napton hire boat all the way to Braunston. They turned into Braunston Marina for services and we went onto the lock flight. As we entered the bottom lock we note that NB Moriaty was out of the water being blacked.
It was quiet on the flight and we went up alone although we met some boats coming down towards the top and a pair of boats behind caught us up. The landslide by the tunnel still obstructs the entrance. We wonder when BW will manage to get it fixed. I gather it will take significant resources and this may take some time. We met three boats coming through the tunnel. The last had an annoying pencil beam light, but far worse was the million candle power hand-held lamp wielded by the steerer. He managed to blind Steve just at the critical moment and we managed to put a scratch along Albert’s gunwale. Luckily it is not a bad scratch, but fixing it is a job we could do without. Why do some boaters need to wave a lamp around in the tunnel? It might be “fun” to see some of the structures and interesting brickwork but it doesn’t help steering.
We passed the new towpath repairs between the tunnel and Norton Junction. It looks a good job. At Norton we met up with NB Chamille and went down the Buckby Flight with them. At Lock 8 only one upper gate was in action. It looked like the balance beam had been split. It was slow going down the flight because we followed a pair of single-handed boats and we also met some very slow crews coming up.
Descending the Buckby Flight
We moored up for the night by the bridge at Weedon. We hadn’t moored there for some time. We decided to eat at the Crossroads Hotel but when we arrived at the Watling Street entrance it looked closed with no lights, empty hanging baskets, missing letters on the pub sign, and the main door closed. However, there was a sign indicating that you could get into the building from the rear. Going round to the car park entrance we were relieved to find that it was in fact open and it was business as usual. We had a good meal but it struck us that they are not making the most of the site. At one time it was a very inviting establishment. Don’t they want passing trade?
Working boat Towcester mooring up to make a coal delivery
In the process we passed another Albert. Ten years ago we used to see this Albert around Blisworth.
Another NB Albert
We followed a Napton hire boat all the way to Braunston. They turned into Braunston Marina for services and we went onto the lock flight. As we entered the bottom lock we note that NB Moriaty was out of the water being blacked.
It was quiet on the flight and we went up alone although we met some boats coming down towards the top and a pair of boats behind caught us up. The landslide by the tunnel still obstructs the entrance. We wonder when BW will manage to get it fixed. I gather it will take significant resources and this may take some time. We met three boats coming through the tunnel. The last had an annoying pencil beam light, but far worse was the million candle power hand-held lamp wielded by the steerer. He managed to blind Steve just at the critical moment and we managed to put a scratch along Albert’s gunwale. Luckily it is not a bad scratch, but fixing it is a job we could do without. Why do some boaters need to wave a lamp around in the tunnel? It might be “fun” to see some of the structures and interesting brickwork but it doesn’t help steering.
We passed the new towpath repairs between the tunnel and Norton Junction. It looks a good job. At Norton we met up with NB Chamille and went down the Buckby Flight with them. At Lock 8 only one upper gate was in action. It looked like the balance beam had been split. It was slow going down the flight because we followed a pair of single-handed boats and we also met some very slow crews coming up.
Descending the Buckby Flight
We moored up for the night by the bridge at Weedon. We hadn’t moored there for some time. We decided to eat at the Crossroads Hotel but when we arrived at the Watling Street entrance it looked closed with no lights, empty hanging baskets, missing letters on the pub sign, and the main door closed. However, there was a sign indicating that you could get into the building from the rear. Going round to the car park entrance we were relieved to find that it was in fact open and it was business as usual. We had a good meal but it struck us that they are not making the most of the site. At one time it was a very inviting establishment. Don’t they want passing trade?
To Hillmorton (May 5)
Today the weather improved although it took until the evening until we saw sunshine. With only Sutton Stop Lock to negotiate, it was a day of putting on the miles to make sure we get home on schedule. Yesterday Steve spent the afternoon examining the gardens at Amington, today he spent the morning looking at the amazing variety of allotments in Nuneaton. Just how many canalside allotments are there in Nuneaton? There appear to be hundreds. (Answers on a postcard to ..)
A relic from the past near Hartshill
We contemplated pausing for lunch at Sutton Stop but decided to press on, particularly since there are not any convenient moorings around Hawkesbury Junction.
Police facility - Hawkesbury Junction
At Stretton Stop we stopped briefly for milk and let NB Golden Valley come past. Just before Newbold Tunnel, by the junction with the disused Newbold Arm, we passed another Albert on her home moorings. We have moored here overnight twice.
Another Albert, Newbold
Newbold Tunnel Illuminations
Maggie decided to walk the towpath near Rugby. A young lad was trying to impress his even younger friends with his mini motorbike. They were being reasonably careful but they disappeared after Steve photographed them. Towpaths are certainly not appropriate places for motorbikes but I suppose we should be grateful that at least they were not on the roads.
Mini Motorbike, Rugby
We finally moored up for the night after nine hours boating just below Hillmorton Locks. A few moments ago, (8:30) working boat Towcester loaded with coal and skippered by Julia Cook, passed us and gave us a cheery wave. We are getting close to home.
A relic from the past near Hartshill
We contemplated pausing for lunch at Sutton Stop but decided to press on, particularly since there are not any convenient moorings around Hawkesbury Junction.
Police facility - Hawkesbury Junction
At Stretton Stop we stopped briefly for milk and let NB Golden Valley come past. Just before Newbold Tunnel, by the junction with the disused Newbold Arm, we passed another Albert on her home moorings. We have moored here overnight twice.
Another Albert, Newbold
Newbold Tunnel Illuminations
Maggie decided to walk the towpath near Rugby. A young lad was trying to impress his even younger friends with his mini motorbike. They were being reasonably careful but they disappeared after Steve photographed them. Towpaths are certainly not appropriate places for motorbikes but I suppose we should be grateful that at least they were not on the roads.
Mini Motorbike, Rugby
We finally moored up for the night after nine hours boating just below Hillmorton Locks. A few moments ago, (8:30) working boat Towcester loaded with coal and skippered by Julia Cook, passed us and gave us a cheery wave. We are getting close to home.
To Hartshill (May 4)
Today was a typical English Bank Holiday, cold, windy and damp. We left Hopwas in light rain and stopped off at Fazeley Junction to pick up water. Another boat was already picking up water so we breasted-up and waited. As we waited, three Sea Otters arrived to empty “elsans” making it quite a busy spot.
We went up Glascote Locks in brighter weather and then stopped for lunch near Alvercote Priory. The afternoon was drier and we had a reasonably good journey up the eleven locks of the Atherstone flight although most needed filling, and they fill slowly. Half way up the flight we had a confusing period waiting for boat to come down the flight. They turned into Baddesley Wharf so we had to close up the lock we had left ready for them.
It was very quiet near the flight with no walkers, joggers or cyclists. Maybe the residents of Atherstone were all indoors watching TV. Under grey skies, we continued to Hartshill and moored up just short of the village. Low level GPRS again tonight.
We went up Glascote Locks in brighter weather and then stopped for lunch near Alvercote Priory. The afternoon was drier and we had a reasonably good journey up the eleven locks of the Atherstone flight although most needed filling, and they fill slowly. Half way up the flight we had a confusing period waiting for boat to come down the flight. They turned into Baddesley Wharf so we had to close up the lock we had left ready for them.
It was very quiet near the flight with no walkers, joggers or cyclists. Maybe the residents of Atherstone were all indoors watching TV. Under grey skies, we continued to Hartshill and moored up just short of the village. Low level GPRS again tonight.
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