Narrow Boat Albert: Shropshire Union Canal

Showing posts with label Shropshire Union Canal. Show all posts

Spring Cruise to Llangollen - the story so far

We shall be keeping Albert at Debdale for a few weeks whilst we wait to have her hull grit-blasted and blacked, so I thought I had better record our trip so far. We left Yardley Gobion for Birmingham via the Grand Union back in mid March and then got caught up in the snow and ice in Birmingham. After a few days back at home, while the weather improved, we travelled through Wolverhampton and up the Shropshire Union to Llangollen with our friends the Kinnings in Blue Pearl, mooring up in the town basin at Llangollen. Our return was via the Middlewich Branch and the Trent and Mersey, leaving Albert a few days in Aston Marina whilst we travelled home again. Our final leg was from Stone to Debdale going through Leicester.

All this was 345 miles and 310 locks with at least 20 moveable bridges, 78 small aqueducts and 16 tunnels according to CanalPlan AC. The highlight just has to be crossing the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in glorious sunshine but with snow on the hills and towpath - just memorable.

Middlewich

We said goodbye to the Kinnings and Blue Pearl on Thursday morning because they intended to make their way down the Shroppie, whilst were heading south using the Trent and Mersey Canal. We shall miss their company after 12 enjoyable days boating. However, they did follow us down the Middlewich Branch as far as Aqueduct Marina before waving goodbye. The weather was, in Scottish terms, dreich.

Cholmondeston Lock, the first on the branch, was busy and we had a queue of around three boats ahead of us. Getting into the lock was made difficult by a fibre glass cruiser abandoned on the moorings closest to the lock – why do people do it!

Pearsons guide for the Middlewich Branch sings its praises. I have to say that in the drizzle it was still possible to understand why. The views from the embankments and aqueducts are stunning, particularly over the River Weaver.

Church Minsell from the Middlewich Branch, SUC

At Stanthorne Lock, close to Middlewich Albert stalled approaching the lock landing. It turned out that we had “picked up a blade full”. A quick trip down the weed hatch revealed a mass of reeds and baler twine - strong stuff.

At Wardle Lock Middlewich we found the historic boat Elizabeth moored up. The length between the Trent and Mersey and Wardle Lock is the Wardle Canal. It is celebrated by an inscription on the Bridge by the junction and at 154 feet is Britain's shortest canal. It was the canal equivalent of a ransome strip when the Shropshire Union was operating commercially.

Historic Leisure Boat Elizabeth

Unfortunately Maureen Shaw's cottage at the junction had been vandalised followed her death. It would be a great pity if it was to deteriorate too far. Let’s hope it becomes a home again.

We had been having some troubles with the recirculating pump on our Aldi gas central heating – rattling and poor circulation. I had rung ahead and Kings Lock had obtained one for me. We stopped to pick it up as we turned onto the Trent and Mersey. Mooring was tricky on their wharf because there was a disabled boat on their moorings. As we filled with diesel a boater informed us that he was going down the lock and intending to turn down the Middlewich Branch and he had opened the gates of Wardle Lock. The boat turned out to be NB Oak. The boat is well known to us because it was moored alongside Albert at Bradford-upon-Avon when we bought her. She has a sumptuous fit out in oak, of course, and is Gardner powered. She also shares several features with Albert, notably a cupboard in well deck. The first owners of both Albert and Oak were close friends and they split a pair of 1930s brass car headlights for tunnel lights.

The new owners were really sold on the boat because of the quality of its fit out. We were equally impressed when we went on board Oak back in 2003.

NB Oak leaving Kings Lock Middlewich

We moored up for the night just south of Kings Lock on the visitor moorings. Although we had moored there before, it is not exactly one of our favourite moorings because of the near proximity of a main road. However, with the coal fire going and the convenience store opposite we were happy.

Barbridge

Wednesday (April 10th) we left Willey Moor and headed towards Hurleston. The forecasters were predicting warmer weather but that appeared to be more cloud with the promise of rain. It wasn’t long before we were lifting bridges.

Raising Lift Bridge near Prees Branch

The electric lift ridge at Wrenbury was interesting as usual, with traffic quickly building up, but the approach is easier from the Llangollen direction because it is straight and not on the angle.

Blue Pearl passing through Wrenbury Lift Bridge

We soon passed through Baddiley Locks where we moored on the way to Llangollen. A few boats were coming up through Hurleston so we had to pass them in the short pounds. The volunteer lock keepers were helpful and friendly.

Hurleston Reservoir

Leaving the bottom lock were hampered by a boat entering lock. Both Blue Pearl and Albert turned north towards Barbridge and we moored up for the night just before the junction. For the first time on this trip we found the “Shroppie Ledge” underneath Albert. The Kinning’s lent us their floating rubber wheels to move Albert out from the bank.

Willey Moor Lock

On Tuesday it was sunny so instead of moving on we walked from our mooring at Blake Mere to Cole Mere and then walked around the lake. The meres around Ellesmere are extensive and well worth exploring.

Picturesque Cottage at Cole Mere

Fallen tree at Cole Mere

By the time we had moved off, mid morning, the weather had started deteriorating. By the time we crossed Whixall and Bettisfield Mosses it was dull and windy.

Operating a Lift Bridge near Prees Junction

Both Albert and Blue Pearl took on water at Grindley Brook. It was very quiet so going through this notorious bottleneck was simple. The lock keeper was particularly chatty and helpful.

Maggie at Grindley Brook

Leaking middle gates at Grindley Brook

Bilingual warning notices

We passed through Povey's Lock and moored up just above Willey Moor Lock. It was a late in the day and we went to the Willey Moor Lock - the pub that is. The fish and chips we had were great and they had a good selection of real ales. One of the features of the pub are its collections of teapots and Toby jugs.

Part of the extensive teapot collection at Willey Moor Lock Inn

Blake Mere, Ellesmere

Monday was not particularly sunny, and although it was windy it wasn't as windy as when we passed through this section on the way to Llangollen. There was again some delay at New Marton Locks.

Pretty Knot Garden at New Marton Locks

As we passed through Frankton Junction a boat was coming up from the Montgomery Canal.

Frankton Junction signpost (plus pigeon)

Frankton Top Lock

Beech House Ellesmere, former canal company headquarters

We stopped for late lunch at Ellesmere Wharf. We were joined by Cutter an unique boat designed and built by Martin Fuller. I had good chat with Martin. He had built the boat in his garden over 20 years. It resembles some tunnel tugs and icebreakers but is truly an individual design. Martin was particularly proud of Cutter's transom stern. It is powered by a Lister that came from a dumper truck.

Martin Fuller and his boat Cutter

Cutter at Ellesmere Wharf

Later in the afternoon we moved out of Ellesmere and moored up at a delightful mooring by Blake Mere. What a wonderful view from our cabin window. The only negative about this location is that it is a digital black hole - no 3G internet, no mobile phone and not TV reception - just the spot to get away from it all. A grebe was fishing in the lake and a kingfisher flashed by our mooring.

Blake Mere - view from our mooring

Post corrected 13 Oct 2013

Chirk (Again)

On Sunday we left Llangollen after visiting the local shops - so we had a leisurely start. The weather was still cold and dry and we followed a number of other boats down towards Trevor.

Leaving Llangollen

Going through the narrows near Llangollen

Maggie strolling along the towpath near Llangollen

Blue Pearl & Albert moored up for lunch at Sun Trevor. Although the sun did not break through the high cloud the views along the Dee Valley still impressed. We crossed the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in a line of a number of boats - it was quite busy. With no sun we didn't quite have the views we had on Friday.

A busy Sunday on the aqueduct

The tight gap between the boat and trough edge on the aqueduct

(the gap is about the same on the other side)

Albert crossing the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Newbridge Railway Viaduct near Trevor seen from the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Once you turn at Llangollen you start travelling downstream. This is because the Llangollen Canal has a flow towards Hurleston Reservoir. This greatly reduced the drag going through tunnels and other channel restrictions such as bridge holes. The Chirk Aqueduct which has a particularly tight channel, because the towpath is solid and not suspended, was much easier to cross on our return.

Blue Pearl leaving Chirk Tunnel

Blue Pearl Crossing the Chirk Aqueduct

Welcome to England

We moored up just after crossing the Chirk Aqueduct, close to the Poacher's (Pocket) near Rhosweil. Unfortunately, this was the first of several nights when we found the 3G reception poor. We couldn't post, hence the delay in posts.

Llangollen

We stayed over in the basin at Llangollen on Saturday and visited some of the local attractions. With the Kinnings we spent most of the day exploring the Dee Valley using preserved Llangollen Railway. This steam hauled railway runs up the Dee valley close to the canal feeder so we were able to visit the source of the Llangollen Canal, the Horseshoe Falls.

Waiting for us at the terminus in Llangollen, which is close to the canal basin was a train headed by by the GWR-class 4-6-0 engine Foxcote Manor.

The weather was cold and bright so the views along the valley were spectacular. Foxcote Manor had a good head of stream which also looked marvelous, particularly when seen against the blue sky.

River Dee from the train

The 10-mile route passes very close to the river in several places. At one bend in the river we passed a fly fisherman standing in the river (in waders of course). The line along the valley also includes a 600 yd tunnel. Since the carriages were not lit, the crew came through the train and were stationed at suitable intervals with torches. It was very dark in the tunnel and the experience was made more interesting when smoke filled the carriage through a part open window.

Snow drifts at Carrog Station

The train terminated at Carrog so we go off the train to watch Foxcote Manor run around the carriages ready to take the train back down to Llangollen. With all the snow around, and the rural location, it was very picturesque.

Carrog Station

Foxcote Manor with a good head of steam at Carrog

We broke our return journey at Berwyn and had lunch at the Chain Bridge Hotel which is being refurbished. The views of the river from the lounge were wonderful. Groups of canoeists were shooting the rapids below us. It appears that the chain bridge itself, which is in poor condition, may also be refurbished.

Chain Bridge and Chain Bridge Hotel

After lunch we walked up the Horseshoe Falls. This is where a curved weir is used to control the feed of water into the Llangollen Canal.

Horseshoe Falls, River Dee

Valve house where the water entering the canal is metered

We returned to Llangollen on the next train and had afternoon tea on a picnic bench at the basin. The sun was warm for a while.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct & Llangollen

On Friday we woke to a clear bright day and headed towards the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct - Telford's masterpiece. The was plenty of snow around on the towpaths, fields and hills. The last time we went across the aqueduct, in our previous boat, it rained so hard that it was difficult to see the ground below and my SLR camera, which I got ready to record the event, failed. It was therefore wonderful to find that not only would our crossing be dry, not windy, and the sun would be shining, but the scenery would be enhanced by a liberal covering of snow. To misquote Greg Wallace from Masterchef "Boating doesn't get much better than this!"

Poncysyllte Aqueduct

Blue Pearl on the Aqueduct

Snow on the hills and shadows on the football field

Spectacular shadow of Blue Pearl crossing the aqueduct, courtesy of Caroline Kinnings

The Kinnings enjoying crossing the aqueduct

Albert on the Aqueduct

We took our time crossing and then turned towards the narrow section of canal that leads to the town of Llangollen. The towpath was quite icy and the snow and wind had also caused havoc with trees. Several trees had fallen across the canal and had only recently been cleared.

Fallen trees

Beautiful rural setting of the route to Llangollen

A stranger in these parts! (and icy towpath)

I had been a little worried about the depth of water in the navigable feeder, with Albert's deep draught, but it wasn't bad with only the occasional bump on rocks in the channel bed. The narrow sections did, however, slow us down considerably.