Showing posts with label River Soar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label River Soar. Show all posts

The Great Towpath Walk - Brian Bearshaw

Long time since I posted. I've been busy on various non-waterways projects and the months just rolled by. However, I was still active reading and buying waterways books so you can expect a few such posts in the near future - and we do intend boating during the summer.

Cover featuring Foxton

One of my recent finds followed on from  my post on The Towpaths of England by Brian Bearshaw. You may recall that I noted that in that book some individual canal-side walks were featured but the centre of England appeared neglected. This book is different and consists of one long walk through the centre of England from London to York. It therefore covers many of the canals that were "missing" from his earlier book including the Grand Union. I say earlier because this book was published in 1988 following Towpath Walks which came out in 1985. This book follows the author walking from central London via the River Thames and then along the Grand Union to Leicester followed by walks alongside the Rivers Soar, Trent and Ouse.

Route of the walk (back cover)

The walk was obviously a considerable undertaking requiring careful planning. Each chapter is basically one day's worth of walking - making this a 16 day walk. As with Towpaths of England, this hardback book is beautifully illustrated with stylish black and white drawings by David Chesworth.

A typical map for a day's walk

The text is more interesting than Bearshaw's earlier book with more content related to the people he met on the way. I suppose that is more of the nature of long distance walking as opposed to walking on single days because overnight stops are required. Most evening stops are only alluded to in the book and it is not that easy to work out where the author spent each night, although there are clues.

Copper mill, Harefield 
The inn is now The Coy Carp

Windmill in Milton Keynes

On most occasions Bearshaw was fortunate with his overnight stops but on one occasion his source, presumably a guidebook, let him down badly. This incident was of particular interest to me because firstly the location is very well known to us, but secondly the way Bearshaw recovered from his predicament. He was weary, and it was getting dark, when he met Brenda Walker who ran Anchor Cottage Crafts at Long Buckby. We knew Brenda in the 1990s when we often stopped at her shop and browsed her wares. We also knew her son who lived in our village. Bearshaw was obviously so grateful for being taken in for the night by Brenda because she not only gets plaudits for her breakfast but she also is the only character he meets that is mentioned by name - she obviously made an impression on him. Strangely, she doesn't appear in the books index which only lists historical characters.

River Soar
I found it a good book to read during the winter evenings. Although thirty years-old most places mentioned are still very much the same so it still has relevance for today's boaters. Making comparisons, particularly with some of the boats illustrated is a fun pastime. It is particularly interesting to note the changes that have occurred on the River Trent; when the book was written it was still a busy commercial waterway.

River Trent scene

Bearshaw makes a number of off-towpath diversions during the walk, notably along the Trent and at York but his focus remains the towpath and the history of the areas passed. The River Trent chapters certainly opened my eyes to some of the historic areas that the river traverses.

Goole
York

When reviewed Towpaths of England, I likened it to a guidebook and noted they didn't produce books like that any more. The Great Towpath Walk is is less of a guidebook and more of a travelogue and they are a very popular form of non-fiction. I can just imagine Michael Palin taking this journey along with a camera crew and writing a spin-off book. Of course today's travelogues are usually gloriously illustrated coffee-table books with colour photographs and not modestly sized books with hand-drawn monochrome illustrations, but therein lies its charm. I suggest you look out on the usual on-line suppliers for a copy which should be available at modest cost.

Spring Cruise to Llangollen - the story so far

We shall be keeping Albert at Debdale for a few weeks whilst we wait to have her hull grit-blasted and blacked, so I thought I had better record our trip so far. We left Yardley Gobion for Birmingham via the Grand Union back in mid March and then got caught up in the snow and ice in Birmingham. After a few days back at home, while the weather improved, we travelled through Wolverhampton and up the Shropshire Union to Llangollen with our friends the Kinnings in Blue Pearl, mooring up in the town basin at Llangollen. Our return was via the Middlewich Branch and the Trent and Mersey, leaving Albert a few days in Aston Marina whilst we travelled home again. Our final leg was from Stone to Debdale going through Leicester.

All this was 345 miles and 310 locks with at least 20 moveable bridges, 78 small aqueducts and 16 tunnels according to CanalPlan AC. The highlight just has to be crossing the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in glorious sunshine but with snow on the hills and towpath - just memorable.

Kilby Bridge

On Tuesday, continuing our  mission to get to Debdale  Wharf by Thursday, we rose early and were boating by 8:00 in glorious sunshine. Unlike Monday, the sunshine was to continue through the whole day. Our first day of warm Spring weather.

Mountsorrel Bridge - easy to tell when it was built!

Mountsorrel Lock

Mountsorrel looked very pleasant in the sun. The waterside area was quite different from the aspect Maggie used to see when she travelled daily along the congested old A6 to her teaching job Birstall when we lived in Loughborough.

Sileby Mill

At Sileby Lock we met a hire boat going our way. This meant we could tackle the wide locks together. They kindly waited for us to lock up.

River Soar near Birstall

Travelling along the Soar meandering through the meadows and lakes towards Leicester in good spring weather was delightful. At last the grass appeared to be growing and the trees coming into leaf after this exceptionally long winter. The only negative was the large amount of plastic debris that had come down river on high water levels and was either caught in foliage or floating in reeds.

Space Centre, Leicester

The river was full of rubbish south of the city and when we reached Belvoir Lock Albert's prop was fouled. We struggled to get into the lock chamber. It turned out to be a large cushion, along with a length of strong binding tape. The cushion came out of the weed hatch as large lumps of wadding.

Once you reach the mile straight in the centre of the city the riverside scene improves.A long time ago I once competed for Stratford upon Avon at Leicester regatta which was held on the straight. The rowing club, much improved, is still there.

Leicester Mile Straight
Leicester Rowing Club

By Freeman's Lock we met a volunteer who helped us through this and all the other locks that day. He went ahead on his bike lock wheeling. We had originally intended stopping at Kings Lock, Aylestone, but spurred on by the other crew, the lock wheeler and the good weather, we forged on to Kilby Bridge. The only real problem we had was we lost our forward (short) chimney on an overhanging willow tree near Wigston.


Horse on the lockside at Double Rail Lock


At Double Rail Lock we found that horses had come right up to the lock side. Quite a shock when first sighted. Good job they were friendly. We finally stopped at Kilby Bridge at around 7:00 - 11 hours boating! It was quite a day but the sense of satisfaction for getting right through from Barrow was great. It left us with only a modest journey on Wednesday to reach our destination.

That night we just had to go for a pub meal. Luckily  the nearest pub, The Navigation does good food. We really enjoyed our meals and dropped into bed exhausted, maybe we are getting old.


Barrow on Soar

On Monday we woke early to make the most of the day since we needed to get to Debdale Wharf by Thursday. The early morning sun and mist made the mooring picturesque. The mist soon burnt off and the start to the day was warm and sunny.

Misty morning sun at Swarkstone Junction

Leaving at 8.00 we made good progress and soon reached Weston Lock where we were joined by NB Silkstone who joined us for locking right through to Kegworth. They were a jolly crew and we enjoyed sharing locks with them. At Aston Lock, for the second time in two years, we had a problem leaving the lock. I won't go into the details here because it deserves a separate post and a bit of research.

By the time we reached Shardlow the weather had deteriorated, the wind had risen and it was cloudy. It is always exiting entering the River Trent at Shardlow. The wide expanse of flowing water makes an impression and passing under the M1 is fun. 


Derwent Mouth, Shardlow

Albert passing under the M1, River Trent

Both Silkstone and Albert went through Sawley Lock together. The only difficulty was that Silkstone had used their BW key to operate the automatic mechanism and another boat was coming up. This meant the crew from Silkstone had to wait for the boat coming up to enter the lock and the gates to close before the key could be removed. They soon made up the delay on the river and they were not far behind us when we got to the first lock on the River Soar.


Navigation sign at Trent Lock

Erewash Canal Entrance

We negotiated the junction with the River Soar and headed through Redhill and Ratcliffe on Soar. Just before Ratcliffe Lock we met a Dutch Barge negotiated the bends. Luckily we met on a straight section. Silkstone had more trouble.

Kegworth Manor

At Kegworth we met up with a single boat ahead. Since we were "on a mission" to get far that day we left Silkwood and teamed up with the other crew who were heading into Loughborough. We had a good run through to Zouch where I did most of my rowing at Loughborough University in the late 1960s and early 1970s. The area certainly brought back memories of our training sessions. There were far fewer boats around then, an no narrow boats.

Normanton on Soar

We had contemplated stopping in Loughborough overnight but recognising that we still had some way to go we decided to press on to Barrow on Soar.

Wide beam about to negotiate a bridge near Loughborough - will it won't it

We arrived at Barrow around 6:00PM and moored up on the single 48-hr visitor mooring close to what is now a canal centre. Back in 1966 the centre building was the University Rowing Club. In 1967 the club left for the Loughborough Boat Club at Zouch transporting all their boats (fours) by rowing them along the canal  through the town.

Riverside Café & Canal Centre at Barrow on Soar
(formerly Loughborough University of Technology Boat Club)

We  finished the day by shopping in the village. Deciding that we deserved a take-away, we got a couple of Baltis. 

Rowing in the 1960s

In the 1960s and 1970s I was involved in competitive rowing, firstly coxing as a young lad, mostly at Llandaff Rowing Club near Cardiff, and then rowing and sculling at Tiffin School in Kingston-upon-Thames, Stratford-upon-Avon Boat Club and then Loughbrough University.

I have very few pictures of these times except the odd newspaper cutting when we happened to win (rarely). However, a few days ago I came across two colour pictures taken in 1965. They both relate to events held on river navigations used by canal boats. The first is a shot of the Stratford coxed four which won at a few Midland regattas and eventually reached Junior-Senior status. I am seen rowing at my usual place in the bows. At two is Barry Burke, three is Boris Holdsworth and the stroke is Richard Lawrence. The cox is out of shot. The photograph was taken at Leicester Quarts, an autumn event held over the straight mile on the River Soar in the middle of Leicester. I remember that we didn't do too well that day. We are wearing tracksuit tops and are obviously making our way to the start.


Leicester Quarts Event, River Soar 1965 - Stratford Boat Club Crew

For reference, here is a picture of the same area when we passed that way forty years later on Albert. Our friend Edward Winter is steering and taking a phone call!

River Soar 2005 - NB Albert


The second image is of a joint Stratford and Evesham crew that in the same year (1965) entered the Boston Marathon. It's basically the same crew as above but Richard Lawrence has been replaced at stroke by a rower from Evesham whose name I can't recall. The Boston Marathon covers the 31 miles from Lincoln to Boston. This was not the only time I took part in this gruelling event. I took part again in the early 1970s when I rowed in a coxless four from Loughborough University. The picture below was labelled "only five miles to go". We had plenty of blisters on our hands and other places when we finished! You may just make out that there are fisherman lining the opposite bank. As we approached Boston I remember that our cox kept asking them how far it was to the end of the race. They gave very misleading answers!


Boston Marathon, 1965 - Stratford/Evesham coxed four