Gloucester Docks (Again)

By Wednesday morning (August 17th) the wind had dropped and it was a very pleasant trip back to Gloucester Docks. Around Quedgeley I saw a kingfisher flying down the reach in front of us.


Tall Ship Phoenix moored up at Monks Meadow, Gloucester

After a stop at the Sainsbury’s superstore near Llanthony Bridge, and taking on water near the Victoria Warehouse, we moored up on the floating pontoons in the main basin.


Taking on water outside the National Waterways Museum

We stayed put on Thursday (18th) as the weather was predicted to be wet. The forecast turned out to be correct – it was not the day to go up the Severn. We investigated the Antique Centre and discovered Gloucester Quays shopping outlet. Dinner at the Pan-Asian restaurant on the docks, the Vinery, was great – a good value buffet.

Saul Junction

On Tuesday August 16th we left our mooring near Slimbridge and travelled to the end of the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal. It was windy and with the wide open areas around the canal it felt a little like sailing.


Ferro-concrete barge near Purton

We moored up the junction with Sharpness Docks and investigated the “end of the line”. The views across the estuary are very fine and the remains of the old Severn Railway Bridge mark a reminder of bygone days.


Remains of the Swing Bridge section of the Severn Railway Bridge


Model of Severn Railway Swing Bridge section




End of the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal


The remains of Mary, Severn Trow

As we had a cup of coffee, the workboat/dredger Sabrina came down the river, through the docks and up the canal towards Gloucester. The exit from the docks requires two bridges to be swung. The high level bridge was swung manually using a capstan.


Swinging the bridge at Sharpness Docks


MV Sabrina (Latin name for the River Severn)

We walked over the areas where TS Vindicatrix(the training ship and camp) was located. The “end of the world” feeling was broken only by the sound of trucks loading a ship in the docks. As the tide went out we saw the remains of the old railway bridge piers in the river mud.


Sharpness Docks

The Docker’s Club overlooking the docks was recommended, and looked interesting, but we decided not to sample it. After lunch on board we left Sharpness and travelled back via Purton to Saul where we moored up overnight. The location, just after the junction, with views of the Forest of Dean and the Cotswolds, was idyllic.
We investigated Saul Junction, including the new marina and the Canal Heritage Centre. It is certainly a boating “honey spot” like Braunston and Fradley.


Saul Junction




Stroudwater Canal - Saul Junction

We watched a superb sunset over the Forest of Dean. It looked like a case of red sky at night – shepherd’s delight.


Sunset over the Forest of Dean

Shepherd's Patch (Slimbridge)

On Monday 15th August we left Gloucester Docks to investigate the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal. Our nineties Pearson Guide talked about the outskirts of Gloucester being seedy. Today it appears to be far from seedy. Superstores, converted warehouses, new roads and new housing all make it quite different. The bridge at Llanthony doesn't open until 9.30, after the rush hour so we had a lazy start.


Llanthony bridge


Lightship

The G & S is wide and deep and usually straight.


Typical G & S scene

We soon got familiar with the protocol with the movable bridges. All are manned and controlled with traffic lights, some lift, a few swing, and some are able to be left in place as we went under. The bridge keepers have a variety of buildings for their working accommodation but in the past most occupied doric columned cottages.


Former bridge keepers cottage

The views at start of our journey were limited but when they opened out we got great views of both the Cotswolds and the Forest of Dean. An usual feature of the Gloucester & Sharpness is that all along the canal are large mooring bollards spaced at regular intervals.


G & S mooring bollards

We had planned to stop at Saul Junction to pick up gas and have lunch. Just as we got past Parkend Bridge in the distance we saw a Tall Ship approaching. It was the Phoenix that had arrived on the morning tide at Sharpness. She was on its way to Gloucester Docks for the Tall Ships Festival that takes place from August 26th to 28th. She, along with the other four tall ships, will moor at Monk Meadow before moving into the docks on the Friday.


Tall ship Phoenix






Saul Junction

The Phoenix passed close by and I managed to get some good shots.


Overtaking scullers

After lunch we made our way to Shephard's Patch where we moored up for the rest of the day. We visited the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust Centre at Slimbridge for the afternnon. We enjoyed the birds in pond areas and the views across the estuary from the hides. We also enjoyed watching the otters being fed.


WWT Slimbridge


View from hide



In the evening we ate at the Tudor Arms which has good pub fare and a range of good real ales and ciders. It is CAMRA recommended. Tomorrow we go to Purton and Sharpness.

Cruise Ships, Tall Ships and a link to Canals

We left St Anthony Head last Friday and travelled home to Northants.

Before we left we found that the cruise ship Albatros had arrived over night and was moored up at Carrick Roads near St Mawes castle.


Cruise ship Albatros

On our journey through St Austell we diverted to visit the historic port of Charlestown. Since we last visited the harbour in 2003 the area around the port has been developed. The tourist attraction is much bigger and there are several more restaurants.


Charlestown Harbour in 2003 with Kaskelot, Earl of Pembroke, and Phoenix


Earl of Pembroke and Phoenix in Charlestown Harbour in 2003

The port is the base for the Square Sail Company who operate their squared-rigged vessels from the port. They are mostly used for television and the movies. In 2003 all three of their vessels were in port but there was no explanantion of their history.


Kaskelot in Charlestown Harbour in 2009

This time just the three-masted barque Kaskelot was in port but she was open to visitors for a small fee. It was fascinating investigating her. She was laid down the year I was born, 1947, and spent her early life around Greenland. Her hull is in oak, but has some steel plating on her bows to protect her from ice. An interesting addition to her rigging are baggywrinkles. They are made from old frayed rope and are to protect the sails and movable rigging from rubbing against the fixed rigging.


Foremast of the Kaskelot (showing a baggywrinkle on the right of the picture)


Bows of the Kaskelot

What is the connection with canals? Well all the ships owned by square sail have all visited Gloucester Docks using the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal.