Almost 12 years ago we had a trip
up the Upper Thames and moored up at Kelmscott
overnight. This was following the summer
2007 floods that devastated the Cotswolds and caused havoc across
central England. We had planned to visit the former summer home of William
Morris, Kelmscote Manor but, although the floods had subsided, the damage to
the house was so bad it was closed to the public. We particularly remembered
that even the Plough Inn was out of beer because of the flooding and an
unfortunate couple who had travelled from Norfolk in their camper van to visit
the manor and had slept overnight outside only to discover it was closed for
the rest of the year.
Since then we have not been back
along this stretch by boat, so when we found ourselves travelling through the
Cotswolds a week ago we decided it was about time that as William Morris
enthusiasts we visited Kelmscott. We were not disappointed.
Kelmscott village does lie a little
off the beaten track but it is delightful. A visit to the manor can effectively
become a visit to the whole village since there are connections
throughout to Morris family (William, Jane and May) and their fellow Pre-Raphaelite, Dante
Gabriel Rossetti who had a complex relationship with the Morris family
. Just look at the map supplied by the manor.
We arrived late morning on a
glorious summer's day and parked in the village car park (a field) designated
for manor visitors. After "the pub with no beer" episode twelve years
ago we visited The Plough and had a great lunch. The inn has several rooms so
would make a good centre for walkers since it's not far from the Thames Path.
It was busy and one of their outside rooms was set up for a party. I discussed
the floods with the staff - it appears that the wooden floor of the pub was destroyed
by the floods so they now have one in stone.
A pub with beer - this time
On the gentle walk to the manor we
passed the cottage that has a wonderful stone carving of William Morris and I
was also taken with some unusual nearby stone fencing.
William Morris contemplating life
Memorial Cottages 1902 - carved by George Jack
The manor is not a
large property if you are familiar with visiting stately homes, and you will
soon become aware that it had a long history before Morris lived there.
Visiting this building is all about William Morris and his work, but there are
other little gems, notably by his daughter May who lived there for many years
following his death.
William Morris's Bed
Jane Morris's Bed decorated in Willow Boughs
It is a widely held
view that Willow Boughs (which we have decorating Albert) was inspired by the
backwater of the Thames that passes through Kelmscott.
Split-stepped staircase installed by the Society of Antiquaries
in 1962
Attic bedspread
Jane and William Morris
Cartoon of Morris fishing on the Thames
The gardens and
outbuildings shouldn't be forgotten. Maggie and I were particularly taken by
the massive mulberry tree in the back garden. It was too early in the season
for ripe fruit but maybe in late August?
Kelmscott Manor's magnificent mulberry
A Three-seat Privy
The Manor owned by the Society of Antiquaries of
London and is only open Wednesdays and Saturdays in the summer. Also
this year it will close for an extended works, mostly associated with the
outbuildings and infrastructure so next year they may have quite a short
season. I did ask the guides about the damage done in 2007. It appears that
none of the artifacts were damaged but they had to have a new floor at the rear
of the building.
Morris's Topcoat
The mooring at Kelmscott is a very
short walk to the manor and is a delightful setting. Although we moored up
there in 2007 and have now visited the manor, we still aspire to do both things
at the same time. I suppose that is icing on the cake? - talking of which the
manor does cream teas!
Kelmscott moorings
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